Shoutout to reddit user /u/MyWeedAcount for this awesome build. He is a regular on /r/DWC and the results speak for themselves. I would suggest this for anyone who has been struggling with hot reservoir temps (above 72F). In my setup I get by with using un-insulated DWC Reservoirs because I have a sealed room with an air conditioner. This allows me to drop my night time temps to 67F cooling the reservoirs down that way. I also live in Canada so warm temps were never really an issue even before I had an air conditioned room. Anyways on to the build.
Materials:
- 5 Gallon Igloo Cooler
- 6″ Bucket Top net Pot
- Airline (I prefer blue over clear/black)
- 2×4″ Airstone
- Light Blocking Foil Tape
Tools Needed:
The finished result (standard build). See further for optional (and then optionally excessive, upgrades). Now let’s DIY!
The Build
Items Needed: drill, 1/4” drill bit, hole saw, deburring tool
Use a hole saw to cut the lid. First cut it this side bc there is a tiny divot in the middle that will help ensure it’s centered. Use the deburring tool to clean the hole saw cut. I recommend cutting a hole larger than the netpot to make it easier to get the future rootball out (lesson I learned). Once you get a decent amount cut through this side, flip it over and finish the hole saw cut from the other side.
Use a drill bit (1/4”) to cut the hole for the air stone, but only drill the hole on the bottom since the cooler lid comes with a 1/4″ hole in the lid already! It was made for this.
There’s a 1/4” hole already cut into the cooler – again, it’s like they were made for this! This is just another angle to show how it’s attached. This is important to get the best seal.
I leave a hole initially to give me room to push the tubing through. I use tape to block light and prevent the roots from entering the lid. Also, this prevents any water from building up and causing issues. You could also use foam insulation (probably a better choice), but don’t use the spray insulation.
This is what it looks like taped up completely. Also, props to this air stone I got on Etsy. It’s phenomenal and perfect fit for this or any 5 gallon really.
Optional Upgrade: ball valve to replace the spigot (which is slow to drain and manual), and a camlock to quickly disconnect from a reservoir or drain tubing.
Optional Drain Port Improvement:
Items Needed:
- 1/2″ Ball Valve & Bulkhead Kit
- 1/2″ ID Vinyl Tubing
- Thumb Hose Clamp
- Foam Pipe Insulation
- Adjustable Wrench or ChannelLock Pliers
Note that /u/MyWeedAccount used a camlock for quick disconnect. I think this is a bit overkill so I have left it off the part list. I think getting the above ball valve kit with a barbed end will allow you to quickly disconnect your hose from the barb. For peace of mind pick up a thumb hose clamp to clamp the hose to the barb for a leak free seal.
Note: Everything used here was taken directly from a home brewers guide. It’s slightly excessive for this use-case, but also super high quality, which I’m about. It’s meant for high-flow, high-temperature situations…none of which we have or want in this setup, but it will certainly last a while and be reliable.
The order in which I put everything on, the red o-ring and lock nut go on the inside, everything else on the outside of the cooler.
Female camlock demo without tubing connected
Closer pic of previous pic
A view from the inside while holding up to the lights show a light leak by the spigot area.
I used more of this ducting tape to cover that.
✅ problem solved!
Optional Upgrade Upgrade: Let’s extend the coolers to make an external reservoir! This will be super easy to disconnect when needed, and make pH and ppm checking much, MUCH easier.
A view of what my finished product looks like. The styrofoam is to get it level with the coolers on the inside of the tent, which are on roller wheel tables
I had to cut a hole in my tent b/c it didn’t have low side ports (it’s alright, it came with extra to patch up if I need to). I recommend cutting a small ‘X’ shape and then slowly fitting the tube through with the foam insulation, adjusting the ‘X’ bigger as needed. If done right, you shouldn’t have any light leaks b/c it will be such a tight fit, but you can always use the HVAC tape to fix that if your tent doesn’t have those ports either.
Another angle of the connected coolers
